Tackle Tips

Properly maintained reels should bring the user many years of trouble free service.  Be sure to read my Complaint about bearing lubrication on newly purchased reels.

1. Reels should be lightly rinsed with fresh water after use.  Once dry lightly oil all moving parts and spray with a moisture inhibitor.  I prefer pure silicone oil and silicone spray which can also be used as a line dressing.  More Upkeep Information Here...

2. To prevent erratic drag performance loosen the drag after each use.  Its the best way to maintain a smooth drag for your next outing.

3. Remove the reel from the fishing rod periodically. Clean and lightly oil the reel foot to help prevent oxidation.

4. To maintain top performance your reel should be completely striped down for a thorough cleaning and re-lubricated no less than once per year for moderately used reels.  Two to four times per year for salt water fishing.

5. If you prefer to do your own servicing, its a good idea to have the parts schematic available.  It will help ensure the parts are re-assembled in the proper order. If you are not comfortable performing this task yourself, I'll be happy to service it for you.  Simply fill out a Reel Repair Form to get started or Email me directly.

Important note...  Water does not have to get inside your reel to ruin it.  Moisture is enough. Take a reel from inside your home or an air conditioned car out on the warm waters and you have an unrealized problem.  Moisture could condense inside the reel attacking any metal parts or bearings which are not thoroughly lubed and/or coated with a moisture inhibitor. This is why it's important to coat all internal parts, including casings, prior to assembly.  If a reel has been dunked, especially in salt water, and you notice it begins to make noise or feel stiff, stop using the reel and have it serviced before the bearings, bushings or gears become ruined.

Periodically check the rod guides for smoothness by rubbing with a Q-Tip or cotton ball.  If it sticks the guide is scratched and can be polished smooth with fine emery cloth.

Never cut a rod blank with a hack-saw.  The proper way to cut a rod is by using a fine file. The finer the better. Jewelers files would work best but not necessary.  Simply turn the file on its edge and start slowly cutting while turning the blank until you get through.  Allow the file to do the work by not cutting to deep on any one stroke.  When using the right amount of pressure the rod material will turn to dust.  If excess pressure is applied by trying to cut to deep the fibers will splinter weakening the blank.  A weakened blank will egg shape under pressure and ultimately collapse and break.  It takes no more time and less effort to use a file rather than a saw.  Protect your investment by using a file!

Graphite rods can't tolerate extreme heat. The resins which bond the fibers could become soft and weaken their hold.

Its a drag!  Let it do its job by putting pressure on the fish to wear him down.  Proper drag pressure should be in the neighborhood of 20 to 25% of the breaking strength of your line.  This should be enough to break a fishes spirit and wear him down.

Have rusty hooks and swivels in your tackle box?  Add a little talcum/baby powder to the compartments to absorb moisture and keep your equipment from rusting. It can also be put in wader boots to keep your feet dry.

Birds and Porpoise know better where the fish are than we do. Keep an eye out for diving birds and feeding porpoise, there's bound to be fish near by!

Always Hook cut bait with the hook point sticking through the meat and not the skin. Aggressive fish will normally grab the whole bait while less aggressive or smaller mouthed fish will many times miss the hook when its sticking out on the skin side because they're attacking the meat.  I will normally run my hook in through the meat and out the skin, then back in through the skin and out the meat.

Enjoy your time on the water and release a couple for me!

11201 Linden Lane

Port Richey, FL. 34668

813-728-5865